The day started with us packing up and leaving Karei Deshe after our usual Israeli breakfast. The dining room was eerily quite with no kids, only a few Russians and us.

Driving south and then through Tiberius we turned off the main road to go to Arbel Nature Park. The main reason for this was to go to the cliff out look. The view from the top of the cliffs is amazing, the whole of Galilee is spread out in front of you. We could see Mount Bental where we had been the day before as well as Mt Hermon in the murky distance. Even though it had rained in the night it was still very hazy so the view was not as good as it could be. An interesting sight was a couple of markers for the Israeli Trail.  This is a trail going from Eilat in the south to Dan in the north covering the entire length of Israel.

On our way back to the main road we heard the sirens at 10:00. So we stopped the car and stood next to it. It was uncanny to hear this sound realising that it was being heard across the entire country. The reason was that it was Memorial Day, one of two memorial days over the next two weeks.

Driving on we arrived at the base of Mount Tavor, and after driving through the village at the base passed the “bus” station. As the road up is extremely narrow and twisty the big tour buses can not go up to the top, so a number of smaller buses (10 to 15 seaters) ferry the pilgrims up the hill to one of the two churches at the top. Since we were driving ourselves we drove up… dodging the buses coming down. Arriving at one of the churches we tried to enter and were told NO NO …. no camera (With Greek accent, by a “lady” dressed head to foot in black). So after putting the cameras in the car we tried again… no, church Close!  Retreating to our car we noticed that bus loads of pilgrims were arriving and being allowed in…. So Jen put on her best smile and ask why she could not go in … Reply –  NOT orthodox !..

After a phone call to our “tourist help desk”, Suzanne, we found out that this was the Greek orthodox church and that we should go to the Catholic Church a little distance away. Here we found the “blue” tour group, each one with a blue backpack. In the church a mass was in progress so we took a few pictures of the surrounding country side.  The view is of the Jezreel Valley looking towards the west, towards Mount Carmel where we had been on day one. The drive down was as nerve – wracking as the drive up, but was accomplished with both our side mirrors intact.

Stopping at a Gas station we bought some ready made rolls and drinks and used the Wi Fi connection of the betting shop next door to up load the blog and check our mail. Thanks for all the comments and emails from every one, glad that at least some people are reading the blog. Jen’s mom is tracking and researching our every move and has to be updated with sms’s at almost every stop we make.  While eating, we received a call from the Sderot Media Centre confirming our tour of Sderot for 9:00am on Sunday and we are really looking forward to that.  This is again thanks to Suzanne for paving the way and connecting us with the right people.

On the way to Zippori, another ancient town, we decided to check with Nazareth Village to see what time the tours were.  Just as well, because they were starting a tour in about 45 minutes which would be the last of the day.  We decided to re-arrange our plans and head directly for Nazareth.  Then we hit the traffic!  The roads to and through Nazareth are extremely narrow and busy. We did not have a detailed map of Nazareth so were following quick verbal direction given over the phone to the navigator. After an agonizingly slow and frustrating drive we found the place, with a few minor “discussions” between the driver and the navigator.  What didn’t help the already hectic traffic was a cavalcade of police vehicles and stretch limos (obviously someone who thought they were important was in town);  and 101 tour buses trying to retrieve their 1001 passengers.

Nazareth Village ( http://www.nazarethvillage.com/village.php ) is a project in conjunction with the YMCA and is a recreation of a farm and village circa 30 CE (the time of Christ). We had a bit of a wait here as the group we were joining had also been held up in traffic so we were able to relax for a bit.

The tour of the site was very interesting, putting a number of the parables into perspective and gaining a feel for life in those times.

The drive through the town had worried Jen and she was concerned that we would struggle to find the place we were staying, Fauzi Azar Inn. On that score she was wrong and right. Turning off the main street we eased our way through the narrow streets, going too far (hmm – driver should listen to navigator!), we missed all the parking, such that it is, and then had to go around and try again. The streets are only wide enough for one car… just. But then an Arab, yes a real Arab, had parked his truck in our path and we were stuck. To reverse was NOT an option, so after a bit of gesticulating a helpful local went and found the offending driver. A whole lot more arm waving and shouting, a few apologies and head-smacking (not by us!) resulted in the impasse being resolved. Since they had been so helpful we did not curse them we they asked us if we were British / American?  Our reply with an emphatic “NO, South African” brought a few smiles and a sincere “welcome … enjoy!”   On round three we parked our trusty car as close as we could to the wall of the lane, it is a little wider at this point and taking our hand language we set off for a 300 metre walk to the Inn.

The Inn is an old building that at one time was the home of a wealthy family.  It has seen better days but has charm and character. The main door is a large door with a smaller door set into it, this opens onto a courtyard, and steep stone stairs go up to a mish-mash of rooms, passage ways and stairs. This place is not for the large person, narrow passages and steep stairs would not be a challenge but an impossibility.  Even getting the luggage up the steep steps and into the room provided a challenge!

After putting our bags down we took a walk to find supper, a falafel.  Having been recommended a place by one of the staff we headed for Mary’s Well where the falafel shop was.  We strolled the streets, by now it was almost 6:00pm and many of the shops were only starting to close up. In one of them Rob managed to buy a cooler-box after some gesticulating in a few basic words .. Ice …Cold…. Box… a deal was concluded. The shop also contained a range of produces – dried, fresh and ready to eat – and was very fascinating.

Having found the falafel shop we bought our falafels, a pita bread with freshly fried balls of massed chickpeas and parsley and a selection of salad to join the balls in the pita bread, cabbage, cucumber, tomato, beetroot, pickled cauliflower (bright pink), red cabbage, and a yoghurt dressing.  All these were “self-serve”.  More than a snack, it was a meal! On our walk back to the inn we bought some nougat and other sweets and then finished off with  freshly squeezed orange juice – squeezed right there on the street.  Wow!  Fresh and punchy, orange juice like no other.

We finish off this day with the sound of the mosques competing with each other as they call the faithful to prayer and the sound of church bells adding a contrasting sound.

Tomorrow… Up to Jerusalem… Day 6