We slept late… Jen did not even hear the alarm, Rob switched it off and went back to sleep, but we finally rolled out of bed and were ready to roll at 08h20. We loaded the car and then went for breakfast.

This was a simple affair, and we were the only ones in the dining room. It consisted of the usual range of Israeli salads, but this time in small side dishes on our own table.  The lady who appeared to be the waiter, cook, cleaner, housekeeper and general dogsbody asked if we would like “omelet?” for breakfast. We said yes, this was a bonus as when it arrived a short while later it was freshly cooked, better than sitting in a warmer as we have had before at other places.

Since the Visitors Centre only opened at 09h00 we stopped at a gas station to buy water, cokes and ice. Now that we know to look for, the seal balancing an ice cube on his nose, it is easy to buy ice. The cooler box has really been a good plan, it holds two orange juices, two cokes, and two waters very easily plus an apple or chocolate bar (or two) – Rob has been eating a LOT of chocolate here!  The car gets so hot when it is parked in the sun while visiting places so it is really good to have a cold drink when we need them. Not all the sites have kiosks and so some times it is difficult to find something to drink. The local water mostly is fine to drink but you never know.

At the Visitors Centre, after buying another 6 for 80NIS entry card [an all entry card for 120NISis also available although we didn’t know about it before]  the lady explained what was available:  a movie, the promenade walk, the sculptor garden, and Bio Ramon.

Unfortunately the Ammonite wall that Rob had wanted to see had been stolen!   Well, not the wall of rock but the Ammonites in the wall.  “How?” Jen asked … by chiselling them out of the rock. This was the only time that we had experienced vandalism of a site, which is sad as these fossils are not replaceable.

While waiting for the movie we walked through the displays and up to the view site. The entire building is built in a spiral very much like an ammonite. The movie gave sweeping views of the makhtesh and the wildlife found in and around it. The camera sweeping over and along the scenery was fantastic, no seasick feeling as at Qumran. Another auditorium housed a relief model of the makhtesh with a panel of buttons. Selecting the buttons played a video on a wraparound screen while simultaneously lighting up sections of the relief model.

Leaving the centre we walked along the promenade a short way. It continues for over 2 km along the northern rim of the makhtesh.  Returning to our car, we did not go to Bio Ramon. It has “creepy crawlies” – Jen had already seen a snake in the movie and was not up to them in real life, nor any other poor animals in cases.  We gave a lift to an elderly gentleman who turned out to be an Austrian Catholic priest on a three-month trip around Israel and Sinai.  We took him, in the opposite direction to which we were headed, down the road into the makhtesh to the starting point for one of the hikes.  The rocks and formations are astonishing.  Driving back up the road we stopped to watch an ibex family stroll across the road and then walk up the cliff, and really walk up the cliff!

Further up the road we turned off at Avdat, a ruined Nabatean City, although a lot had been built by the Romans and the Byzantine.  The architecture and skill of the ancient builders is still remarkable today, and plain simplicity is contrasted with detailed and skilful stone carving.  It stands on a hill so the view across the Negev was wonderful, and the apparently dry desert is interspersed with green patches.  The irrigated fields of grapes and fruit trees stand out like artificial plants on the barren landscape. What we saw here made us realize not only what can be done with determination but also fulfils what Isaiah said – that the desert will bloom again.

A little further on we turned off again, this time at a view point for the Ein Avdat canyon. The view down into the canyon makes you dizzy.  Just seeing the kids coming up the path puffing and panting was enough to make us tired.  The riots of teenagers seem to be every where and go to all the sites.  It makes you want to be a kid in Israel although the armed guards made you realise where you are.

Further up the road again we turned into the Ein Avdat Park “proper”. A steep drive down into the valley and then a winding road up into the start of the canyon brought us to a car park. Taking water and camera we walked part of the way into the canyon, the sides felt they were closing in around us and we were overawed by the cliff walls of eroded rock. The almost white rock was extremely bright and the heat was overwhelming, and the warnings to carry sufficient water become very real. Turning around at the ancient dam we returned to our car and our cooler box with its cold water to discover that the outside temperature indicated 44 degrees C.

We drove back up to the entrance, parked and walked into the memorial garden and grave of Ben Gurion. The number of groups of children, teenagers, IDF members and others was interesting, each one with a guide giving an explanation.  This we have seen at many of the historical sites, maybe this explains the pride and hope that so many Israelis have for their country.  The “dress” of the IDF is interesting: extremely casual and some might stay sloppy in comparison to the khakis / blues of the armed forces in RSA.  Jen finds some of them really cute though, but there’s nothing to beat an SA Navy officer in his whites and with LOTS of braid!

As the time was getting on we headed straight for Beer Sheva, and since we did not have a map it was a little bit of guess work. Jen had booked us into the Paradise Negev that is now a Golden Tulip, so while driving around we saw an Eldan office, and after asking directions we found the hotel.

The hotel is great although a bit pricey but has all the modern conveniences and good food. We also get to sleep in a real double bed tonight, with the right size duvet and plenty of pillows so that will be very good!

Tomorrow …. back to Jerusalem Day 19